<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>Desert Eagle Community Forum</title>
		<link>http://www.deserteagleforums.com/</link>
		<description>Desert eagle discussion forum and club for owners and enthusiasts of Desert Eagle pistols,go to http://www.deserteagleforums.com/.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 05:54:55 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.deserteagleforums.com/vision21/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>Desert Eagle Community Forum</title>
			<link>http://www.deserteagleforums.com/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>refinishing</title>
			<link>http://www.deserteagleforums.com/showthread.php?t=54&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2010 01:00:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My .44 Mark19 is in the standard black.  Down the road, I will be refinishing.  I am not sure in what, but hard chrome is one option I don't normally...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My .44 Mark19 is in the standard black.  Down the road, I will be refinishing.  I am not sure in what, but hard chrome is one option I don't normally consider, but am for this gun.  I played with the idea of nitriding until I contacted coal creek armory (who sends guns off to Burlington) and they said that you can't nitride the DE because it would ruin the gas system.  Damn it.  So the other option I am considering is DLC (tungsten carbide) as it is reportedly very very durable and corrosion resistent.  And I like the idea that you don't have to heat the parts to an extreme temperature for the its application (around 5-600 degrees C...compare that to nitriding which goes up to almost 1000 -- almost melting temp of steel!  This actually can cause dimensions and properties to change in areas of parts).  The problem with DLC is that it is EXPENSIVE and I'm not even sure it can be done with the DE gas system.  I'll find out though when I get closer to refinishing my DE.  Other than that, there is good old duracoat (moly resin imbedded), NP3 (expensive) and some other newer processes.<br />
<br />
Anyone get their DE's refinished?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.deserteagleforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=30">Optional Finishes</category>
			<dc:creator>seed</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.deserteagleforums.com/showthread.php?t=54</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>lubing a DE</title>
			<link>http://www.deserteagleforums.com/showthread.php?t=53&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2010 00:49:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am relatively new to the DE scene, but I have come to the conclusion that DE's need to be more heavily lubed than most guns.  When my brother...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am relatively new to the DE scene, but I have come to the conclusion that DE's need to be more heavily lubed than most guns.  When my brother borrowed my DE to take on a shooting trip, upon his return it would not open (by pulling the slide back) until the 4th or 5th pull.  This happened multiple times.  So, I took it apart, cleaned it pretty well (not immaculate, but more than sufficient) and proceeded to lube the hell out of it at the key points...this includes the obvious parts (slide rails, recoil rods, etc) as well as some not so obvious parts.  I took the slide apart and lubed the bolt, and the bolt stabilizer pin (part number 4) where it slides against the bolt.  I note this here because I believe that it was the culprit preventing the slide from being able to be racked.  The only other part that I can imagine doing this is the cross bar of the recoil assembly...but I doubt it because of how the slide would not budge until it finally would...and in a manner as if there was nothing dragging.<br />
<br />
Anyway, long story short: after heavy lubing my DE, it is smoother than it ever was...EVER.  It's like a totally different gun.  And absolutely no hint of my previous problem.  Even though I have yet to shoot it since, I am pretty convinced I did the right thing.  I have to confess that the reason I did it was because of that excellent youtube video where that guy shows you how to disassemble and reassemble a DE to a very thorough degree.  He bubbled that he stopped having problems with reliability when he started lubing more heavily.<br />
<br />
Bottom line is that the DE is a beast that is different from any other firearm.  I won't be using it for defense and am not worried about dust or lint...so if I need to lube it heavily (relatively speaking, of course) to make it work, then I will.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.deserteagleforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9">Cleaning And Maintenance</category>
			<dc:creator>seed</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.deserteagleforums.com/showthread.php?t=53</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>California firing pin stop</title>
			<link>http://www.deserteagleforums.com/showthread.php?t=52&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:22:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My first post here. 
 
Anyway, I recently took apart the slide to solve a problem which occurred after my DE M19 came back from a shooting trip.  The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My first post here.<br />
<br />
Anyway, I recently took apart the slide to solve a problem which occurred after my DE M19 came back from a shooting trip.  The slide would not budge when either my brother or I tried to rack it until the third, fourth or fifth try whenever it was closed.  So I decided to thoroughly clean and heavily lube the bolt and related parts.  It did the trick and now the slide racks smooth as glass every time.  I will explain in more detail in another post.  But anyway, in order to get to these parts, I of course had to remove the firing pin stop.  Unfortunately it was a California pin stop with its retarded &quot;drop safety&quot;.<br />
<br />
To remove it, I had to depress the additional safety plunger and then while holding it down, depress the back of the firing pin.  Then I could let go of the safety plunger and turn the safety on to hold the firing pin forward as I slid the plate off.  Upon doing this, a super cheap and easy to lose tiny coil spring fell out.  That was the easy part.  But getting that damned spring back in place was ridiculous.  The design is so terrible that it can only be described as an afterthought.  I wasn't even sure I got it back in right.  It didn't matter.  The next day I called Magnum Research and ordered the normal plate.  You could tell the guy on the line felt my pain as he did not have to ask why I wanted it.  He knew exactly why.  <br />
<br />
Well, long story short -- I took out the California plate and put in the correct normal plate.  It worked instantly and upon close examination of the CA plate, what a relief I replaced it with the proper part as the potential for the CA plate to malfunction and prevent the firing pin from being struck when pulling the trigger seemed a very real possibility.  What a horrible thing it is.  If anyone's interested, I'll explain how it works...but I am off to bed right now (work nights).  In the mean time, if you have a California-OK DE with the special &quot;drop-safety&quot; plate, do what I did and replace it immediately.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.deserteagleforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=10"><![CDATA[Factory Parts & Access]]></category>
			<dc:creator>seed</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.deserteagleforums.com/showthread.php?t=52</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
